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Thailand by Train

New on ThailandByTrain.com (June 2008)
Interactive Maps
I am gradually replacing the old hand-drawn maps, with Interactive Maps (thanks to those wonderful people at Google).

These are essentially Google Maps, with my own overlays: the maps can be panned and zoomed, and where it seemed appropriate (e.g. Chiang Mai), I have also provided a switch to satellite view (from Google Earth).

Typical is the Thailand Railway Map shown below: use the controls in the top left hand corner to pan and zoom, but for this map, satellite view did not seem useful, so I did not include it.

New on ThailandByTrain.com (April 2008)
Koh Kret Island: an excursion from Bangkok
Life by the river
Life by the River
Koh Kret is a quiet rural island in the Chao Phraya river a few miles from central Bangkok: no cars or pickups, just bicycles, a few motorcycle taxis, and lots of boats.

Getting there is easy: the reward a pleasant relaxing day away from the traffic and pollution of the city. Read more

New on ThailandByTrain.com (April 2008)
A Brief Guide to Thai Temples
Dharma Chakkra, 'Wheel of the Law'
Why are Thai Buddhist Temples constructed the way they are? What is a Chedi, an Ubosot, a Wiharn, a Hor Rakang? Why are Sema Stones placed around the Ubosot?

In this section, I have tried to answer these and other questions, illustrated by photographs from many parts of Thailand, and with a list of sources for further reading. Read more

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Thai Railways
Railway Network
Thailand has an extensive railway network, reaching to the furthest extremities of the kingdom, and to the borders of Burma, Laos, Cambodia and Malaysia.

The track is narrow (1 meter gauge) as in Malaysia and parts of India, and for most of its length, single-track only; this, together with the lack of  bridges, makes travel by train in Thailand rather slow - it can take more than an hour just to get through the various road intersections and out of Bangkok!
Thailand By Train
However, Thailand's railways are comfortable and inexpensive, safer than travel by road, cheaper and more relaxed than travel by air.

Using the rail network, you can travel pleasantly and economically from Chiang Mai in the north to Had Yai near the border with Malaysia, from the Laos border at Ubon Ratchathani and Nong Khai, via Bangkok, to Kanchanaburi and the Kwai Valley, for centuries the road to Burma.
ThailandByTrain.com:
ThailandByTrain.com started as a rail guide to Thailand - I love Thailand and generally enjoy travelling by train; there are, however, lots of places in Thailand which are inaccessible by rail, and for those places I give appropriate directions.

Any information on train time-tables, fares, travel classes etc. cannot be guaranteed, but is, as far as possible, accurate and up-to-date.

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International Connections
The Thai railway system connects with Malaysian Railways at two points on the southern border: Padang Besar and Sungai Kholok. Unfortunately separatist unrest in the South East of Thailand has somewhat affected tourism in that area, especially on the Sungai Kholok side - see the section on Border Travel.

An old SRT (State Railway of Thailand) map, which can be seen outside certain stations, shows a connection with the Cambodian Railway at Aranya Prathet (end of the Eastern Line). Unfortunately, after many years of war in Cambodia, the connection is no longer used. There are some train services in Cambodia, though very basic. As far as I am aware (2008), no trains go west of Sisophon, 48 km from the Thai border. Hopefully the situation will change in the next few years, as Camodia recovers.

More hopefully, there is now a rail link to Laos, at Nong Khai. As yet the link only crosses the Mekhong river, but hopefully it will reach Vientiane in the not too distant future.

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Railway Routes
There are four major routes from Bangkok:

The Northern Line, shown black on the map, runs through the heartland of Thailand taking in the ancient capital Ayutthaya, and Chiang Mai, once capital of the northern kingdom of Lan Na, and other historic centers such as Lopburi, and Lamphun.

The north eastern line, shown green, crosses the Isan plateau via Khon Kaen and Udon Thani to Nong Khai on the border with Laos, about 20 km from the Laos capital of Vientiane; an easterly spur passes through Nakhon Ratchasima (Korat), Buri Ram, Surin and Sri Sakhet, on the way to Ubon Ratchathani and the border with southern Laos.

The eastern line (shown blue on the map) goes through Chachoengsao, Prachinburi and Kabinburi to Aranya Prathet on the border with Aranya Phrathet. A southeastern spur of this line goes to Pattaya and Sattahip, but trains are rare.

The southern line leads to the tropical beaches and islands of the south, and connects with the Malaysian railway system at Padang Besar and Sungai Kholok; from Padang Besar you can travel the entire length of the Malaysian Peninsula arriving at last at the island city of Singapore with its unique blend of east and west.

Unfortunately, for the last two years, there have been regular terrorist incidents in the extreme southern provinces of Songkla, Yala, Pattani & Narrathiwat. See: Southern Insurgency

A western spur, once known infamously as the Death Railway goes from Thonburi railway station to Kanchanaburi and the Bridge on the River Kwai.

The real Bridge over the River Kwai The Real Bridge Over the River Kwai

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Byways
Alongside the main routes the Thai Railway system has several curious branch lines - I particularly like the Mae Khlong-Mahachai line from Bangkok to the coast. This line originates in Thonburi, west Bangkok, and with no connection to the main network, goes south west to the old fishing ports of Samut Sakhon and Samut Songkhram, with a break in the line at the Tha Chin river in Samut Sakhon - if you want to travel the rest of the line you have to take a two baht ferry and catch another train on the other side. I have tried this trip (see the Mahachai Railway section, but if you try it yourself, check on the train times, because there are not many trains west of the river.

One byway which I have not tried, but will do some day, is the train from Bangkok to the old town of Suphanburi, which branches off the main Southern line near Nakhon Pathom. Unfortunately there is only one train per day, leaving Bangkok at 16.40, arriving Suphanburi at 19.40. This is somewhat more convenient than the return train, which leaves Suphanburi at 04.50.

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Eastern & Oriental Express
Many years ago I noticed that the Thai Railway system connects with the Malaysian railway system and it occurred to me then that the journey from Bangkok, through peninsular Malaysia to Singapore must be one of the great railway journeys of the world.

I was not alone in this vision: if you have around $2,050 (2008 price) to spare (per person, one way), you might consider traveling from Bangkok to Singapore in the 19th Century splendour of the Eastern and Oriental Express.

If your budget like mine is more limited, then travel by scheduled services, though much less luxurious, is still a lot of fun.


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Relics of the Steam Age
Steam Locomotive 340, resting at Chiang Mai Station Resting at Chiang Mai Station
Up and down the Thai Railway Network, you can find relics of the steam age - engines, carriages, coal trucks etc., sometimes in good condition and spotlessly clean, sometimes rusting to oblivion.

Steam locomotive 340, seen below, is currently rusting outside Chiang Mai station. According to the descriptive plate it was manufactured in Switzerland and saw service between 1927 and 1953. See the history section for more images.